By Wilde Becker. Speaker Stands. At Tuesday, July 30th 2019, 19:06:09 PM.
Where vibrations are allowed to leak into any studio furniture or wooden floors, the audible result is often a blurring of the bass and lower mid range, as well as a deterioration in the stereo image. By using an appropriate stand or platform, the bass end should tighten up to a very noticeable degree, leaving the mids sounding clearer and the imaging better defined.
If you already have a speaker stand with spikes and your floor is made of wood, then you should consider putting some form of isolation platform between the speaker and the stand, to prevent the cabinet vibrations reaching the stand and, through it, the floor. Avoid flimsy stands that move or rock when you touch them. If the final assembly doesn’t feel completely solid, avoid it.
That’s where you need to put the sub. If your sub has a phase adjustment knob, or a polarity–invert switch, adjust this until you hear the loudest result from frequencies around the crossover point, typically 80 to 120 Hz.
Centre Channel speakers require dedicated stands as they tend to be of unconventional dimensions. The CC Series provides that solution and are available in a wide range of height options.
And according to Otto Jørgensen, this is where you have the most to gain from acquiring a pair of speaker stands: “The most impactful benefit of getting stands is added distance between your speakers and surfaces. It keeps early reflections to a minimum. And that’s especially important for the speakers’ low-end performance.”
You could just plonk your speaker onto the top of your chosen stand, of course, but it’s best to have the speaker fixed to the stand in some way, because otherwise it can slide around. One popular and effective method is to place blobs of Blu–Tack under each corner; this acts as both a removable adhesive and as a damping medium. Another alternative is to use high–friction rubber matting, of the type sold for workshops and kitchens.