By Wilde Becker. Speaker Stands. At Tuesday, July 30th 2019, 19:03:11 PM.
If you already have a pair of simple foam speaker platforms, you can improve their performance simply by gluing a heavy floor tile to the top. Ordinary contact adhesive works fine for this. Then you can either glue some kitchen mat to the upper surface, to provide some grip, or use Blu–Tack, as discussed earlier, between the tile and the loudspeaker.
Of course, you do still need to attend to room reflections by adding some basic acoustic treatment — but that’s another subject and one that we have covered on numerous occasions in our Studio SOS series.
The HMS Series is considered to be Audiophile level by many and incorporates a significant increase in mass loading capacity and designed with very high quality speakers in mind such ProAc and other premium manufactures.
The theory is that the mass and spring characteristics are chosen so that the resonant frequency of the combination is well below that of any frequency they’re likely to be asked to isolate. For example, if the lowest note a speaker can reproduce is 30Hz, then the resonant frequency of the supporting platform needs to be well below that — perhaps just a few Hertz or less.
Even if you already have a loudspeaker stand, you can still use one of these foam–based speaker platforms on top of it to reduce the amount of vibration getting into the stand and subsequently into the floor. Many of the commercially available platforms come with additional foam wedges that may be used to adjust the vertical angle of the speaker if necessary.
We tend to think of a loudspeaker as a fixed box that produces sound directly from the moving cones of the speakers (and, where the speaker is ported, from the port as well). Although that is certainly where most of the sound comes from, the reality is that no matter how rigid the cabinet is there will also be some vibration of the cabinet walls.