By Wilde Becker. Speaker Stands. At Tuesday, July 30th 2019, 19:04:03 PM.
You could just plonk your speaker onto the top of your chosen stand, of course, but it’s best to have the speaker fixed to the stand in some way, because otherwise it can slide around. One popular and effective method is to place blobs of Blu–Tack under each corner; this acts as both a removable adhesive and as a damping medium. Another alternative is to use high–friction rubber matting, of the type sold for workshops and kitchens.
Centre Channel speakers require dedicated stands as they tend to be of unconventional dimensions. The CC Series provides that solution and are available in a wide range of height options.
One of the roles of an effective speaker support is to prevent such vibrations from being transferred into other structures, such as wooden floors, desktops, shelves or mixer meterbridges. It should also hold the speaker as firmly as possible, to reduce movement due to the action/reaction effect.
If you already have a pair of simple foam speaker platforms, you can improve their performance simply by gluing a heavy floor tile to the top. Ordinary contact adhesive works fine for this. Then you can either glue some kitchen mat to the upper surface, to provide some grip, or use Blu–Tack, as discussed earlier, between the tile and the loudspeaker.
You may have noticed that some speaker stands are fitted with spikes on the base, which help to make a rigid and stable contact with the floor. As long as the stands are both robust and stable, this strategy works well on solid floors, but you may find that it causes problems on wooden floors, due to vibrations from the speaker cabinet being transferred to the floor via the rigid stand and spikes. The floor will then act as the king of soundboards!
It’s physics: for every action, there’s an equal and opposite reaction.